Question:
I purchased a Model A two years ago. The gentleman that restored it passed away, and I purchased it from his widow. A friend of his told me it has a Model B motor. How do I know this for sure? Is there some noticeable difference. The exhaust manifold has recently cracked. I don't know if I should have it welded or try to replace it. But either way I need a gasket set. This is the reason I need to be able to identify it. Also could you explain the difference between the two motors to me. -- Bill Adamson

Answer:
There are several noticeable differences between the A and B engines.

1. The Model "A" engine has a oil return tube on the right side of the engine, that extends from the lower left corner of the valve cover to the lower right corner of the block. The "B" engine has no external oil return tube.
   
2. The Model "B" engine has a small port on the right side just below the valve chamber cover for a cam driven fuel pump. This port will either have a fuel pump attached or have a triangular shaped plate covering the hole.
   
3. Both engines use the same manifold gasket. The "A" and "B" manifolds are interchangeable for either engine. The differences in exhaust manifolds is the angle of the exhaust tube at the end of the manifold. The "A" is at about 90 degrees (drops almost straight down) and the "B" manifold drops off at about a 45 degree angle.

Question:
Can you advise me where to get some technical info and/or other written information on putting a Model B Engine in a Model A Ford ? --Gunter Smith , Mobile, Alabama

Answer:
Last month I gave you an answer concerning putting a Model B engine in a Model A. I was just reviewing some of my E-mail questions and answers and realized that I left out some important information about putting the "B" engine in the Model A. You may have already gotten this information but if you haven't, the engine pan on the B engine must be modified to clear the Model A flywheel housing. I don't have dimensions for you but after the flywheel has been bolted up to the block, set the B engine pan on and you will be able to see what needs to be done to make it fit. It means cutting a piece out of the back of the pan. Its been done many times. A good Body man can do that for you. I'm sorry if this caused a problem for you. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
My Model A is running a little rough with a lot of backfiring when you step on the accelerator. Can you give me some idea where to start looking?

Answer:
Back firing is usually caused by the condenser failing or... the points may not have sufficient gap. Make sure they are set at .018 to .020". Make sure they are not burnt. Backfiring can be caused by intermittent firing of the ignition system or very lean fuel mixture. If the car has been setting for a while, the carburetor float valve may be sticking. Clean the float valve good and set the float level. Backfiring due to intermittent ignition can be caused by a frayed wire on the bottom side of the distributor plate . . or .. by intermittent connection of the ignition switch.
1.) Check point setting first.
2.) replace condenser next. Make sure the condenser you buy is the right length, some are too short, and that it is a good quality.
3.) Check that the carburetor float valve is operating correctly.
4.) Sometimes the pop out type ignition switches get intermittent. As a last resort, replace the ignition switch/cable. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
During our discussion of "excessive valve tapping noise" you mentioned that you had a part number for valve guides that you give me to try. I'm interested in replacing the guides to see if the noise goes away. Here's one more symptom that I didn't mention. When you start the engine cold with the throttle lever down a few notches the tapping starts within 5 seconds and lasts for up to 2 minutes. The noise gets softer as (I think) the valves get oil then the engine will run quiet. If within 10 minutes I drop the idle down the noise comes right back. I experimented with valve clearances and they are currently at 10 thousands. I have had them at 13 and 15 and still have the noise. If you have any other suggestions or questions please contact me. -- Wayne Champagne

Answer:
Do you happen to have a "B" cam in your Model A? B cams are much noisier than A cams. Another thing that adds to a noisy cam is the cam bore. There are no cam bearings in the Model A. They are bored in the block. I have seen them worn quite a bit. That means the cam is whipping some and many of them are bent. This usually adds up to a noisy cam (noisy valves.) Changing the valve setting doesn't make that much difference in noise. .015 is usually quieter than .010. It has to do with the harmonics of the cam. I would suggest you reset the valves to .013 intake and .015 exhaust.

Make sure the lifters are not worn (cupped). I just rebuilt the engine in my 1928 Delivery before going to Reno. In the process I had the cam bore bored out and bronze bushings installed and line bored to the cam. I installed a B cam that had only .005 run out. I set the valves to .013 and .015. This is the smoothest and quietest engine I have ever built. I relate the results to the perfectly straight cam and the insert bushings. It would also help the valves to add 4 oz. of Mystery Oil to the crankcase and 4 oz. to the gas tank.

You said that setting the valves at .010 and at .015 didn't make any difference in the noise. It finally dawned on me why. Many times and often overlooked (as I did) we forget to check the valve lifter bore in the block. It sounds like you may have too much wear in the valve lifter bore. You can have it rebored and put in over size lifters. I think Bratton's has over size lifters. The Jeep lifter is the same but has a larger diameter so you will need to bore out for jeep lifters. What happens is the lifter gets cocked in the bore and makes the clicking sound that sounds like noisy valves. Check it out. This may be your problem.

You said you had the cam reground. I would check the lobes on your cam. The Model A grind has a smooth round grind on the high side of the cam lobe. Some shops will automatically put a "B" grind on an A cam when they regrind it. The B lobes come to a very high point on the high side lobe. The other thing to look for is he may have ground nearly all the material from the heel side of the lobe, possibly all material from the heel. If this is so it resembles a B grind with a higher lift, and the valve drops off the high lobe much quicker and results in much more valve noise. If that is the case you will not get rid of the noise until you change the cam. If that is what is causing the noise, it's not a bad thing if you can cope with it. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
Just looking for some advice on starting a '29 Sedan (of which I know nothing about) It was my grandfather's car and has been sitting unused for 15 years. Prior to his passing, it was driven on a regular basis. How do I set the spark control for start up? What fluids should be changed etc... I just need to put it on the trailer, off the trailer and into my garage. I would eventually like to drive it on occasion. The tires are still holding air. Any suggestions would be appreciated. -- CA LINDLEY

Answer:
Here's a list of the steps you should take. Also consult the "Model A Instruction Book" which was included in the original tool kit. Reprints are available from your local Model A supplier.

1. Change the oil before starting the car. Use 30W non-detergent.
2. Check transmission fluid level. Fill to just below the fill spout on the right side of the transmission. You will have to remove the floor boards to get to it. Use 600W oil or straight STP.
3. Check radiator water level. 1" below filler neck.
4. After sitting for 15 years you may have gummed up gasoline in the gas tank. There is a gas shut-Off valve under the gas tank just above the emergency brake handle. Turn the handle on the shut-off valve up to the horizontal position for shut-off. Disconnect the gas line at the carburetor and then open the shut-off valve to see if you get a good flow of gas out. Reconnect gas line.
5. Make a couple of primary checks before trying to start: Model A has a negative (-) 6 volt system. Place a piece of paper between the point contacts. Turn the ignition key On and check for 6 volts from the Point arm to a ground point. (- or ground lead of the volt meter to the point arm). If 6 volts is present then remove the paper from between the points and then pull the point arm open and closed to see if a spark is generated. If it is, you are ready to start the engine. Turn the key OFF.
6. Turn On the gas shut-Off valve. Turn handle down (vertical position).
7. Turn the choke knob CW until it seats then CCW 1/4 turn.
8. Place the left (Spark) control rod full up (retard position).
9. Place the right (gas) control rod full down. --- MAKE SURE SHIFTER IS IN NEUTRAL POSITION----
10. Turn on ignition key, pull out the choke rod and hold and press the foot starter. After about two revolutions let go of the choke rod and the engine should fire and start. As soon as it starts, move the spark control rod about 3/4 way down and move the right control rod ( gas) up to an idle position. Both control rods can be left in that position for normal driving.

Question: What precautions do you recommend before starting a rebuilt engine for the first time or an engine that has not been run for many months or years?

Answer: When the engine first starts, you want adequate lubrication to all engine parts, particularly the rods, mains and rings. This requires that there be oil in the valve chamber to provide lubrication for the mains and the cam shaft bearings and in the oil pan tray which provides lubrication for the rest of the engine. The only way to be sure of this is to drain a couple of quarts of oil from the oil pan and pour it down the distributor mounting hole. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
When I read much of the literature on the resizing of carburetor jets, which process I have recently completed, most of the writers merely referred to this task as, "solder the jets closed, and then redrill them with the appropriate sized bits." As Russell Baetke wrote to me in a letter, "too often we are writing with other engineers in mind." A similar occurrence has cropped up in the engine rebuild. (I liked your idea about switching and/or grinding down the castle nuts for the connecting rods in order to get them to line up with the cotter holes!) Page 1-139: "6. Insert the asbestos rope gasket (previously soaked in oil) in the timing gear cover..... 9. Bolt the timing gear cover in place..."

In my situation, it simply won't work!!! Frustration, frustration.... After many hours of attempting to implement the suggestions of others (e.g., "use a socket just smaller than the crank diameter to pound the rope seal into place"), there was no way in which even a mashed seal would permit me to line up the bolt holes with those in the block. With the timing gear cover (without seal) bolted in place, I noted that I have only about .030 inches of clearance between the crank and the cover. Of course, this will vary, depending on the thickness of the shims under the main bearing caps (mine average 018-.020 inches with newly bored bearings).

Fortunately, I had saved my old seal (there was no front seal leak before the teardown). I thought that perhaps the previous rebuilder had used a smaller diameter seal than the one-half inch diameter rope seal that I had obtained from Bratton's. The old one was the same type seal with the same diameter, and it fitted neatly into the machined groove; it did not have the look of being beaten into place. However, it had the look of a seal that had been carefully sliced on one side to give it a flat surface to place against the crank. Because of this flat side, the timing cover bolt holes are able to line up. One Club member here in Houston told me earlier that under no circumstances should the rope seal be cut, because it would disintegrate over time. What do you think? I almost feel that I have no choice but to trim the seal. Thanks for any thoughts that you might have, and you still wrote a great book!

Answer:
Do not slice the asbestos gasket. Your problem may be that your gasket is a little too long. Its OK to cut a little off the end if necessary. After tapping it into the timing gear cover make sure the two ends are level with the bottom edge of the cover and that the gasket is seated all the way into the cover flange. You should be able to tap the cover down onto the crank far enough to get the top bolt into the timing gear cover, then work your way down from there. I have never had that much difficulty except when the gasket was a little too long. It gets flat from wearing in and makes a good seal. If all fails you might check with Bratton's about a new neoprene seal that is available for the front seal. I have never tried it. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question: Another thought, passed on by a more experienced Model A'er, that seems to have merit is along the lines of using gasket sealer. His suggestion is to use the most permanent sealer on the top of the pan gasket, that is between the gasket and block, and a very conservative amount of silicone for the pan side. This way when you remove the pan, the gasket will stay on the block side and the pan will come away, hopefully with the gasket intact to be re-used. I recently tried this over a year's time and it worked wonderfully.

Indian Head also works good for setting the threads on bolts in place of the more permanent and sometimes damaging Loctite. Haven't had any bolts work loose. More importantly. when removing bolts I haven't ruined any more threads! Loctite is good stuff unless you grab the wrong one. then disassembly is disastrous. -- Mike Flanagan, The Model A Fool.

Answer: Mike, the oil pan gasket technique is commonly used and a good one. However, you must be sure the surface of the bottom edge of the block is clean or the gasket will stick to it and thus tear apart when you remove the pan. Then it's a real headache to clean the pan surface and the block, especially if you use the Permatex gasket sealer. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
My question of the day relates to fitting exhaust manifolds and gland rings. I have tried to install three different original manifolds onto gland rings without any success. Although the rings will fit into both the manifold and the block, the alignment for putting them all together is way off. What is the solution to this problem? Many thanks for your assistance. -- Kirk Mohney, Gardiner, Maine

Answer:
Ford had the same problem or recognized the problem. That is why the gland rings were eliminated in Jan 1929. He went to a copper clad manifold gasket . Make sure your intake manifold and the exhaust manifold have been machine surfaced together so they are the same height. Throw the glands away and use the good quality copper clad asbestos gasket and you won't have a problem. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I recently bought a 1931 AA truck for restoring and was wondering what horsepower these engines came in? Are they any different from engines produced in automobiles? -- Bob Pearson

Answer:
The truck engine is the same as the Model A car engine. The torque power for the trucks was obtained through changes in the transmission and differential. All Model A engines were rated at approximately 24 Horsepower (SAE) or 40 Braking Horsepower. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I have been working on the '29 "A" Coupe but hit a glitch on the front motor mount. Removing the front bolts from the motor mount and the yolk stud lower hardware and raising the front of the engine slightly, the yolk should fall forward and be removable from under the crankshaft pulley by moving forward and up. It seems logical, but it doesn't happen that way in my car. I raised the front of the engine up (loosened the rear mounts some) to the point where the throttle linkage was just touching the firewall and I still couldn't get the yolk out from under the crankshaft pulley. What am I doing wrong?? I wanted to replace all the parts and pieces and repaint the yolk and cross frame. I had to settle for leaving in the old spring mounting plate which looked OK and splitting the leather washed to get it around the stud and under the yolk collar (hope it stays there).

I did replace the springs (one collapsed and one broken in half) and all the bottom brass bushing, spring and castle nut hardware. Also, I noticed that when the motor mount spring apparently broke the front of the engine had dropped enough to hit the pulley housing on the front cross frame and wear a little grove in the shaft part of the pulley housing. Doesn't seem like anything to worry about for now. However, is there some other hidden damage I should look for?? Should I replace the pulley immediately?? When I do replace the pulley, do you recommend the two piece or the webbed one piece?? Also when replacing the pulley, should I replace the upper and lower "dog turds" with original design or move into the one piece neoprene seal they now have available and say it does not require any engine modification??<

Answer
You must remove the crank pulley to get the front motor mount off. Here is the advantage of a two-piece pulley. Two-piece means the pulley shaft that slides on the crank is in two pieces. This is strictly after market. Ford never made it this way. The advantage of having the shaft in two pieces is it will allow the pulley to be removed from the crank shaft without removing the radiator. There is only a little over 2" clearance between the pulley and radiator. The standard pulley and shaft is 3-1/2" long. The two-piece pulley is 2" long and the separate shaft portion is 1-1/2" long. They are notched so the two pieces lock together when bolted in place. Therefore, the front pulley section can be removed without removing the radiator. With the standard pulley you must remove the radiator to get clearance to pull it off the crank. The pulley nut takes a 1-3/8" socket if original Ford. Three replacements have been used over the years. I suspect they are from different year or make cars but have the same thread size for crank. These socket sizes are 1-1/8", 1-1/4", and 1-5/16". Check your size before buying a socket. All should have the cast iron sprocket design.

Another caution with some of the two-piece pulleys. A slot is cut into the back end of the pulley shaft and fits into a key on the crank, locking the pulley to the crank. Some of the pulleys slide too far onto the crank shaft. This allowed the end of the crank shaft to stick out beyond the end of the pulley casting by .010" or more. The end of the shaft MUST stop short of the front face of the pulley. This allows the ratchet nut to firmly tighten against the face of the pulley and pull it tight to the crank. If the crank sticks out beyond the pulley face any amount, the ratchet nut can not be pulled against the pulley, and the pulley will be loose on the crank shaft.

My recommendation : Replace the pulley if it has any defects in it. I have seen these blow apart many times when on the road. It's easier to fix in your garage then on tour. It's ok to go with the two piece pulley (two piece shaft) but get a good quality one. Then make sure it fits correctly. The advantage is if the pulley blows when on the road, you can replace it with out removing the radiator. If the two sections are not fit extremely tight (with the ratchet nut) it will make a clicking noise like a loose tappet, where the two sections are notched together. -- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

Question:
I recently purchased a 1932 4 cylinder motor & the deck has some pits in it, how deep do the pits have to be before I have the deck shaved? If I have the deck shaved will the pistons protrude above the deck and if the pistons do come above the deck is it OK?

Answer:
If your pistons are beveled around the edge so they do not hit the head gasket of the head, then you can shave the block with out any problem. Between the block and the head you can take off up to .125" although most should come off the head so that the piston does not protrude too far above the block. Shaving the block or head is going to raise your compression some. That means more horse power. I wouldn't worry too much about pits in the block. Its more important that the deck (top of block ) is milled perfectly flat, same for the head. Use a .100" over head gasket if the pistons are not beveled and they protrude above the block. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I have a 1930 four door sedan recently purchased. There is a very strong odor of oil entering the car after it heats up. Does it come from the oil breather? If so, is there a way to deflect the exhaust under the car so that it doesn't smell up the inside? Thank you.

Answer:
Sounds like you have a very tired engine. What you are smelling is cylinder blowby caused by worn out rings and worn cylinders. The combustion chamber is leaking past the rings into the crankcase and being blown out the oil breather pipe. You can minimize the amount that gets into the inside of the car by putting a flexiable breather pipe tube on the breather pipe to replace the cap. This is an accessory that has a flexible pipe that is about 24" long to route the blow by under the front floor boards. This may help some but will not eliminate the problem. An engine rebuild is the only solution. In the mean time use 40W oil and add some STP to thicken the oil around the rings and get a little better seal. This is not a fix, just a temporary band aid. Good Luck.

Question: There appears to be a bad oil leak on my newly purchased 1930 Model A in front of the clutch housing. I was told it might be the rear engine seal. Does this sound reasonable and how much do you think it should cost to fix it??

Answer: I need some additional information about your engine. How many miles on it since it was rebuilt? When you say a bad leak, how much oil is dripping on the ground? Is it running from below the inspection plate on the front of the flywheel housing on the face of the housing or from the hole in the bottom?

Now having asked that let me say it's to soon to tell if its the rear seal or something else. Now you have some work to do . First, thoroughly clean the engine and the underneath surface of everything, oil pan, engine block, fly wheel cover etc. Get it as free of grease and oil as you can. Because the engine sits at a slight rearward tilt, even a leak from the front oil pan seal can appear to be leaking from the rear. Oil will run along the edge where the oil pan bolts to the bottom of the engine and then down the face of the flywheel cover. Oil can leak from the bottom of the oil return pipe of the valve chamber.

Let's clean the surface and then run the engine and then watch for signs of oil. Also tighten all the oil pan bolts. Be careful not to break any. The worst case of trouble can be the rear main or when the engine was assembled the gasket that goes between the engine block and the flywheel cover was left out. If the gasket was left out, a large amount of oil will leak and give the appearance of a rear seal leak. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
After a 25 to 30 mile trip in hilly country I checked the engine on my "A" and noticed that there was a fair amount of fresh oil below and behind the filler pipe on the block, the radiator connecting hose, and the starter. The crankcase was full according to the dipstick. During this trip I had several long downgrades, using engine braking in high gear, and holding about 30-35 MPH. My filler cap does not have any kind of "screening" - or breather - and I was wondering if this is normal - and if it was possibly caused by crankcase pressure on the long downgrades? Should the "A" crankcase be kept slightly below full, like the radiator? -- George Yarbrough

Answer:
Yes the conditions you describe probably built up pressure in your crankcase and caused the blow by out the filler tube. How many miles on your engine ..... if new your rings may not be seated yet ....if lots of miles you may have worn rings.....put a copper scrub pad (from your local grocery store) in the oil filler cap .....that may help.... Do not over fill with oil but at oil change it should have at least 4 1/2 quarts...The book calls for 5 quarts but when you drain the oil some of it still remains in the oil tray... I keep mine just below the "F" on the dip stick. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
Three of us have been building and repairing as a hobby--Model A's and have accumulated several extra parts. We at one time had 11 engines but we had to discard several because of damages. We have recently pulled apart three engines and all have holes in the top oil pan, about 1/8" diameter. right where the rod slinger passes through. We can't find any earthly reason for these holes and feel we ought to braze them shut. One engine had a check valve at the bottom on the rear main drain tube. Again we don't think that this is correct. Would you have any sage advice on these deviations? -- Fred Engelman

Answer:
By all means, do not put the pan in the car that way. I have heard of this being done before. Someone that doesn't know any better has drilled the holes so ALL the oil drains out at oil change. When the car sets for a short period of time there goes all the oil in the rod dipper tray. That means no oil at start up until the valve chamber fills up and then drains back to the tray. As you can see, it's a BAD idea. Check balls were put in the AA truck rear main drain tubes. Unless you overfill the crankcase and then drive up a 12% grade or better, the check valve is not needed. Its important not to fill the crankcase above the F mark. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
How does one tell if the oil pump is worn? I have one that has little or no play in the gears or shaft, but has had an end plate from a model 18 car (18-6616) put on it. This pump obviously is not a 18-6600 pump and I presume a former owner did what you say not to do with the pump, i.e. fasten it with a bolt or set screw through the engine block. (It has telltale marks on the upper body as if it were held in position with a bolt much the same as is seen on a distributor base casting). If it is worth keeping, I'll try to find an A-6616 to replace the 18-6616. Otherwise, it's a parts source. -- Don Kidwell

Answer:
About the only thing that can be done to an oil pump is to replace the upper and lower shaft bushings. There is normally very little if any wear on the shaft or gears. I would not discard it. It's hard to find a bad one if the bushings are good. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I recently purchased a 1932 4 cylinder motor & the deck has some pits in it, how deep do the pits have to be before I have the deck shaved? If I have the deck shaved will the pistons protrude above the deck and if the pistons do come above the deck is it OK?

Answer:
If your pistons are beveled around the edge so they do not hit the head gasket of the head, then you can shave the block with out any problem. Between the block and the head you can take off up to .125" although most should come off the head so that the piston does not protrude too far above the block. Shaving the block or head is going to raise your compression some. That means more horse power. I wouldn't worry too much about pits in the block. Its more important that the deck (top of block ) is milled perfectly flat, same for the head. Use a .100" over head gasket if the pistons are not beveled and they protrude above the block. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
After installing the new set of rings on the one cylinder, I've only driven it 40 miles, or so. Is there a chance that if I drove it a while longer that the rings might seat? Or is it just wishful thinking on my part? -- Bob Snellings

Answer:
I'm sorry but I'm afraid its wishful thinking. If it were to work, the new rings should have brought compression up to about 55 LB right away. You need to measure the cylinder top, center, and bottom with an inside micrometer to find true condition. The cylinder usually wears heavy on one side at the top and on the opposite side at the bottom of the cylinder. They wear out of round. If they are .010 over at the top and .010 at the bottom it usually means you are .020 out of round. That's too much for rings to take up. With that much compression loss, I would also check for a burnt or warped valve or cracked valve seat. Good luck. I hope it works out OK for you. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
A question about the starter drive (this would be much easier if I could draw a picture!) Starting at the end of the shaft there is a piece that holds one end of the drive spring and is pinned to the shaft by the bolt. It is cut so that a tab mates into the end of the rest of the drive. It is this second part, that has the center cut to accept the tab, that I have the question about. It is in two pieces and the separation appears to be a break and not manufactured that way, but it also has a groove and a thin retaining ring which holds it together. If it was one piece it would not fit over the end of the main part of the drive. So - is mine broken or just worn. It was working fine before removal. --Cary Taylor, Alameda CA

Answer:
It sounds like you have a broken drive sleeve or service sleeve. In the Ford Service Bulletins, page 577, you can find a partial description of the service sleeve and drive head. A full description of how it all goes together is found in the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook, page 1-21 and 1-22 with full illustrations. Spring clips were a service item used under the two bolts. If that is what is broken you can discard and no need to replace. But it sounds like you have a cracked Bendix drive sleeve, in which case it will have to be replaced. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I have discovered that my engine on my 31 Cabriolet has the dam broken off in the front of the valve chamber. seems like this is a very common problem in many old blocks and causes oil starvation in the center and rear mains. The symptoms were the engine was overhauled and run at low speeds for quite a few hours while the rest of the car was being completed. I took the car on the highway and increased the speed to about 55 mph and sustained the speed for about 2 miles. the car started knocking and tried to lock up but when I immediately pulled to the side the knock went away in about 30 seconds. I fixed the oil dam after several days of consultation and found that the car will now run for several more miles but eventually starts knocking again until I stop for a while, suggestions?? I know that I'll have to go through the bearings but would like to solve the problem first! -- Charles Nill

Answer:
I'm not sure you can solve the problem before tearing the engine down for overhaul. The things to check are the oil pump (is the valve chamber filling with oil ?). Make sure the three oil passages to the three Main bearings from the valve chamber are clear. I have seen the rear main oil tube partially blocked in an attempt to eliminate rear main oil leak, Then check the rods and the Mains for correct bearing clearance. Make sure the oil pan baffle has not been removed. Its needed for the rods to pick up oil. Let me know what you find. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I'm in the process of putting the oil pan back on the engine of my 1930 Town Sedan. The rear main cork gasket is 8 1/4" long but it appears to be about 1 3/4" to long. What should the correct length (considering the compression factor of the pan) of the rear main cork gasket be?

Answer:
There are 3 different moldings of the Rear Main Bearing cap. They all vary a little in that cork channel. The best thing to do is use a razor blade and cut off a little at a time until it is a perfect fit. This cork gasket needs to sit on top of the tab of the pan gasket and then fully seat in the channel around the Main cap and sit flush on top of the pan gasket tap on the other side. Sometimes the gasket is a little too wide for the channel so I shave a slight bevel on one side to allow the gasket to fit well into the channel. Don't allow for compression. That will take care of it's self. Both ends need to sit flush before compression. Apply a small amount of gasket sealer at each end where it sits on the pan gasket. No sealer needed elsewhere on that gasket. -- Les Andrews, 1999 Technical Director

Answer:
I strongly urge you not to do that. Most seals require removal of the crank and having a groove ground for the seal. I have seen too many of these fail. You will probably be replacing the seal often if that's the route you take. The answer is not an after market seal. That's not correcting the problem. The Model A will not leak oil if the Mains are set up correctly. 99.9% of the time the rear oil leak is because the rear main Babbitt is cracked and/or too much clearance due to wear at the rear main bearing cap. You need to pull the engine and inspect the rear main Babbitt bearing. Make sure the Babbitt in the block and the bearing cap is not cracked or broken. If cracked or broken, Babbitt must be replaced. Make sure the oil return tube on the rear main bearing cap is in place and is clear (not clogged). Then install the rear main bearing cap with only .001" clearance. The last thing to check is end play of the crank. There should be no more than .004" end play. More end play than that and the crank acts like a pump and pushes the oil out the rear main as it moves back and forth. When the Model A main bearings are set correctly, it will not leak oil. I have three Model A's and have put many miles on them and they do not leak oil. (maybe a small finger print size drop after a long hard trip). -- Les Andrews, 1999 Technical Director

Answer:
Sometimes they can be rather stubborn. The important thing is to have patience. You did the right thing with WD40. Continue to do that around the studs. This might take 4 or 5 days of soaking. Water sometimes works its way up around the studs and rust forms around the hole in the head. So the head is rusted to the stud. CAUTION--CAUTION. Do not ever try to pry anything between the head and the block on either side. You will surely crack the head. If it appears that the head is lifting at the front it is OK to use a chisel at the front edge and do a little prying (carefully). If you can not get the head to move then the safest thing to do is to double nut the studs (may have to grind one nut thin to get two nuts on the stud). Tighten the bottom nut against the top nut to lock it and then turn the top nut to unscrew the stud. Try to remove all studs. Don't worry about damaging a stud . They should all be replaced anyway and are inexpensive. Head lifts off easy with studs removed. If double nutting does not work of you strip the threads, get a stud remover from your automotive parts house. It clamps to the stud so it can be screwed out. -- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

Question:
I have a 1930 coupe that I'm in the process of trying to remove the head to replace my head gasket. My problem is that the stud that goes thru the gooseneck thru the head is not being too friendly.I have the gooseneck off and tried the trick in your book about double nutting the stud to remove it. It worked for one, but when I tried it on this one the threads on the bottom nut stripped out. I then added more liquid wrench, waited a couple days and tried again with what room is left on the stud . No luck. The same thing started to happen,so I stopped. Next I went to SEARS and purchased a stud remover and all that did was bugger up the threads. Got any suggestions. I'm stuck.

Answer:
I have had the same problem so I know what you are going through. The Sears type stud remover will usually not do the trick for a badly rusted in stud. It will take lots of soaking as you are doing and then a professional type stud remover. This is a heavy duty type that has jaws that clamps the stud. It will usually destroy the threads but studs are cheap and easly replaced. It is common for the goose neck studs to get rusted in because of water leaking in the bottom of the stud hole from inside the block. If it happens to break off, not to worry. Drill it out and insert a helicoil as described in the Mechanics Handbook. Try patience first with the liquid wrench and then get on the stud with a small pipe wrench. You must grip it near the base of the stud. This has worked many times for me. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question: I recently redid my Model A engine. I torqued the head to 40 lbs. cold and all was well. I started and ran the engine and retorqued the head hot to 50 lbs. and when I got to the water neck nuts, 50 lbs. of torque squeezed the gasket out of the water neck. I used the paper match stick trick that I see recommended to keep from breaking the neck. My question is should I use less torque on the water neck nuts or use no gasket at all, just gasket cement? -- Ted Purtell

Answer: Torque all 14 head nuts to 50 lbs. this includes the water outlets. However twist the torque wrench on these two slowly. The method you used is fine and use the gasket provided in the gasket kit. Head nuts should be torqued when cold in 5 lbs. steps, i.e. start at 35, 40, 45 and then 50 lbs....warm the engine up and then torque at 50 lbs. again. Drive the A about 100 miles or so and torque the head one final time at 50 lbs.. That should last you for many many miles. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Answer:
These parts are all available at your local automotive parts store.
Valve Guides - (one piece) Seal Power #VG 361. I'm told this new number will fit without reaming. May have to freeze the guide before inserting. It's been tested and I'm told its a good fit.
Valve - Seal Power # 1558 It is too long, grind the tip off as shown in the Model A Mechanics Handbook.
Valve Spring - Seal Power # VS71.
Keeper - Seal Power # VK115.
Spring Retainer - GM # 14003974 (or small block Chevy).
Some of the above numbers are different than the earlier books stated. These parts are all available. -- Les Andrews, 1999 Technical Director

Question:
How do you adjust model "A" valves? The Ford service bulletins show what order to adjust them in but not how. I have a 1928 motor with Ford Model A valves that are in serious need of adjustment. -- Rick Botti

Answer:
First Question is do you have adjustable lifters in you engine. If so its just a matter of turning the adjusting screw and checking the clearance. If not you have a major project ahead of you. It will require pulling the valves and building them up and grind to fit. The best answer for the old style solid lifter is to replace them with adjustable ones. It is a challenge but can be done without pulling the engine. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
Do you have any tips for the installation of valve guides in my late '31 pick-up? All the literature I've read suggests that they should just slip into place. However, that's not the case. I can only get them started by approx. 1/8". -- Mike Sorrentino

Answer:
You did not mention if you are installing the 2-piece valve guide or modern one-piece guide. Either way, it sounds like you may have carbon build up in the valve guide bore. The valve guide should measure .594" diameter. Try running a honing tool through the guide bore to clean out any carbon. They should slip in with hand pressure. It should be same dimension for either type of valve guide. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Answer:
Les I noticed that the number you list for the valve spring retainer (Chevrolet #3279363 - Page 1-130) is not a good number. The old flat head valve retainers will work, and I think they used the same spring or at least the same spring diameter. -- Bruce Hyland, Charlotte, NC

Answer:
You are right. They no longer show up in the parts computer. I was always able to get them until about a year ago. The new number for the spring retainer is GM 14003974 or ask for small block Chevy. The Machine shops use to throw them away when they would rebuild a small block and they would usually just give you the old ones. The new number appears in the latest revised printing of the Model A Mechanics Handbook. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I am having a problem with my late 1931 Tudor Sedan. Whenever I rev the engine in park, it has a bad vibration when you decelerate. People at shows say all different things. What is your opinion of the problem? -- Joe O

Answer:
Without hearing the engine it is difficult for me to determine your problem. From what you tell me it sounds like something is out of balance. Everything in the engine beginning with the fan blade and the pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, pressure plate and clutch, should all be precisely balanced. Also check to make sure your rear motor mounts are tight and make sure all three mounting bolts for the starter are tight. You may also have a flywheel that is out of alignment. All the above things I have mentioned can cause excessive vibration. I would probably suspect the flywheel and pressure plate to be more likely the problem because of the vibration on deceleration. A warped flywheel housing can throw everything out of alignment, but any one of the above problems could be at fault. It doesn't sound good. I hope you are able to find the problem and correct it.

Question: I have a August 1931 AA 157" truck I am restoring. The chassis is completed but I am having a problem with a used engine I obtained to replace the missing one. This engine was rebuilt in the late forties and never used. The engine has water leaks around the head studs. I have replaced the head gasket with three different types, replaced the studs, sealing them once with Permatex High Tack and once with Rectorseal, used radiator anti-leak in the radiator, and had the head resurfaced. Now, one of the new studs will not tighten, and will need a Helicoil. Since I'll need to remove the head once again, perhaps a Helicoil in all the holes would end the problem? Or do you know of a fix? -- Jerry Oliver, Olympia WA

Answer: Once you have the head off, the first thing I would do if you have not already done so is to re-thread all the head stud holes in the block. Use the appropriate thread chaser...fit all your head stud and check for the loose ones...if there is side to side movement a Helicoil is probably in order (be sure there are no cracks in the block at the stud holes) When you reinstall your head studs be sure to put a little anti-seize compound on the threads.....occasionally a stud will leak a little water and in a short time will seal itself and you'll have no problem...however, watch it carefully for over heating and a possible combustion leak...it must however torque and hold at 50 lbs...... let me know how you make out. -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

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