Question:
What jack should I have with my Model A?

Answer:
There were several different jacks provided in the original Model A tool kit from 1928-1931. Model A jacks always had a separate handle. None of the jacks had the Ford script logo and most did not have a manufacturer's mark. Model T screw jacks did have the Ford logo, and they also had an attached handle.

Model AA trucks had larger, heavier jacks with separate handles and they DID have the Ford logo. The MAFCA/MARC Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines has a full description of Model A jacks in Area 17 - TOOLS; the AA jacks are described in the Heavy Commercial Vehicles section.

You may also consult the web page Model A Jacks for more information.
-- Rick Black, El Paso Texas 11/26/05

Question:
Do you have more information about the took kit every Model A and AA had when new?

Answer:
There were several variations of tool kits during the Model A years of 1928-1931. Refer to the MAFCA/MARC Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines for exact information. For general information, look at our Model A Tools page for descriptions and photos.
-- Rick Black, El Paso Texas 11/23/06

Question :
I recently purchased an original, late type cast iron AUTOLITE manifold heater. It fits the regular 1931 reinforced manifold perfectly, (not the waffle top type). However, I cannot figure out how it can, or should be attached to the engine, or the manifold. I'm sure it doesn't just sit there with no attaching bolts, or some kind of brackets. The earlier type has two screws in the top that attach the heater to the top of the waffle type manifold. The type I have has no holes for mounting, except for two screws running horizontally to hold the two halves of the heater together. The aluminum type currently available from most vendors utilizes a few clips and screws, but they won't work on my heater. I have searched all my catalogs and technical manuals to no avail. Can you shed any light on this mounting problem. Thanks again for your help. -- Gene Taylor

Answer:
I have a small collection of Manifold heaters that were made for the Model A. I happen to have both of the Autolite heaters that were made. The one you mention has two bolts that go through the two halves that hold it together. One located at the rear just below the round outlet port. The other bolt is located about 4" behind the front square air inlet. These two bolts not only hold the two halves together, but also are used to squeeze the two halves tight against the manifold. Loosen the two bolts and then sit the heater down on the manifold. The four internal baffles should rest on top of the manifold. Then tighten the two bolts. This should apply enough pressure to hold the heater tight against the manifold to prevent rattles.
-- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

Question:
Please tell me where one would hook up a oil pressure gauge at the engine.

Answer:
On the right side of the block (passenger side) there is a small plug in the side of the oil pump chamber. The is a fine taper pipe thread (3/8-27-PFT). Remove the threaded plug and screw in a brass fitting for your oil pressure line. You will only read about 2 or 3 pounds oil pressure.
-- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

Question :
Where can I get a reprint of the owner's manual for my 1928 Model A Roadster Pickup? Thanks.
-- Dr. Ned Nordin

Answered by Rick Black, webmaster:
According to the TOOLS section of the MAFCA/MARC Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines, there were 5 different Model A instruction manualsfor the the 1928 cars. Consult the chart on page 17-4 of The Standards. A summary of that section of The Standards can be found at instructionbooks.html

As of 2006, there are two 1928 versions that have been reprinted: version 3 and version 5. Check your local Model A reseller or refer to the Parts and Service Suppliers page and search for "instruction".

Answer by Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director:
The differences are fairly minor and deal with minor changes in some of the pictures that have to do with the particular year of car. The instructions are basically the same. You can sometimes find an original manual advertised in The Restorer magazine or in Hemmings Motor News. Original owners manual are advertised at $60 and up. The reprint costs $5 to $10.

Question:
Can you tell me what are the traditional colors for the oil, water and gasoline running board cans for a Model A?
-- Dave Stoner

Answer:
I am unable to find any official documentation regarding the can colors. This may be due to the fact they were an after market accessory. In most cases they were red for gasoline, Blue for oil, and white for water. I have seen some oil cans painted green.
-- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
I have been trying to add a light to the temperature gage I just installed by going thru the ignition switch, so that when I turn on the ignition switch the temperature gauge light will come on. One side of the switch is always hot, where do I connect the wire to?

Answer:
You will not be able to tap into the ignition switch circuit if you have the original pop-out type ignition switch. If you are using a generic Key type switch with the small cable, you can try connecting your light to the switch terminal with the armored cable (that goes to the distributor). The other side of the light will go to ground connection. When you turn on the switch the light should come On. ... But there still may be a problem. The ignition switch is in the line from the coil to the distributor points (applying 6 volts to the points). Your light bulb would be in parallel with the points. This may cause a flicker with the bulb as the points open and close, or may interfere with the condenser operation because of the light bulb being in parallel with the condenser. Do not place your light in series with the armored ignition cable. The light bulb would create a voltage drop to the points. You can try the parallel connection from the switch to ground with your light bulb and see if the car will run OK. If that doesn't work, connect your light bulb from the terminal box post to one side of your light, and the other side of the light to ground through an ON/OFF switch. Let me know how it works.

Question:
Have any ideas how I can disassemble an original tire gauge? Jim Sharp

Answer:
I just got an email from a fellow that responded to your question in the last issue of the RESTORER magazine about disassembling the tire gauge. He has a large collection and can tell you how it is done. He is M.L. DeBoer and his email address is kingmeld@aol.com. Good Luck. Hope this gets your answer.
-- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Answer:
I strongly urge you not to do that. Most seals require removal of the crank and having a groove ground for the seal. I have seen too many of these fail. You will probably be replacing the seal often if that's the route you take. The answer is not an after market seal. That's not correcting the problem. The Model A will not leak oil if the Mains are set up correctly. 99.9% of the time the rear oil leak is because the rear main Babbitt is cracked and/or too much clearance due to wear at the rear main bearing cap. You need to pull the engine and inspect the rear main Babbitt bearing. Make sure the Babbitt in the block and the bearing cap is not cracked or broken. If cracked or broken, Babbitt must be replaced. Make sure the oil return tube on the rear main bearing cap is in place and is clear (not clogged). Then install the rear main bearing cap with only .001" clearance. The last thing to check is end play of the crank. There should be no more than .004" end play. More end play than that and the crank acts like a pump and pushes the oil out the rear main as it moves back and forth. When the Model A main bearings are set correctly, it will not leak oil. I have three Model A's and have put many miles on them and they do not leak oil. (maybe a small finger print size drop after a long hard trip).
-- Les Andrews, 1999 Technical Director

Answer:
Sometimes they can be rather stubborn. The important thing is to have patience. You did the right thing with WD40. Continue to do that around the studs. This might take 4 or 5 days of soaking. Water sometimes works its way up around the studs and rust forms around the hole in the head. So the head is rusted to the stud. CAUTION--CAUTION. Do not ever try to pry anything between the head and the block on either side. You will surely crack the head. If it appears that the head is lifting at the front it is OK to use a chisel at the front edge and do a little prying (carefully). If you can not get the head to move then the safest thing to do is to double nut the studs (may have to grind one nut thin to get two nuts on the stud). Tighten the bottom nut against the top nut to lock it and then turn the top nut to unscrew the stud. Try to remove all studs. Don't worry about damaging a stud . They should all be replaced anyway and are inexpensive. Head lifts off easy with studs removed. If double nutting does not work of you strip the threads, get a stud remover from your automotive parts house. It clamps to the stud so it can be screwed out.
-- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

Question:
I have a 1930 coupe that I'm in the process of trying to remove the head to replace my head gasket. My problem is that the stud that goes thru the gooseneck thru the head is not being too friendly.I have the gooseneck off and tried the trick in your book about double nutting the stud to remove it. It worked for one, but when I tried it on this one the threads on the bottom nut stripped out. I then added more liquid wrench, waited a couple days and tried again with what room is left on the stud . No luck. The same thing started to happen,so I stopped. Next I went to SEARS and purchased a stud remover and all that did was bugger up the threads. Got any suggestions. I'm stuck.

Answer:
I have had the same problem so I know what you are going through. The Sears type stud remover will usually not do the trick for a badly rusted in stud. It will take lots of soaking as you are doing and then a professional type stud remover. This is a heavy duty type that has jaws that clamps the stud. It will usually destroy the threads but studs are cheap and easly replaced. It is common for the goose neck studs to get rusted in because of water leaking in the bottom of the stud hole from inside the block. If it happens to break off, not to worry. Drill it out and insert a helicoil as described in the Mechanics Handbook. Try patience first with the liquid wrench and then get on the stud with a small pipe wrench. You must grip it near the base of the stud. This has worked many times for me.
-- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question: I recently redid my Model A engine. I torqued the head to 40 lbs. cold and all was well. I started and ran the engine and retorqued the head hot to 50 lbs. and when I got to the water neck nuts, 50 lbs. of torque squeezed the gasket out of the water neck. I used the paper match stick trick that I see recommended to keep from breaking the neck. My question is should I use less torque on the water neck nuts or use no gasket at all, just gasket cement?
-- Ted Purtell

Answer: Torque all 14 head nuts to 50 lbs. this includes the water outlets. However twist the torque wrench on these two slowly. The method you used is fine and use the gasket provided in the gasket kit. Head nuts should be torqued when cold in 5 lbs. steps, i.e. start at 35, 40, 45 and then 50 lbs....warm the engine up and then torque at 50 lbs. again. Drive the A about 100 miles or so and torque the head one final time at 50 lbs.. That should last you for many many miles.
-- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Answer:
These parts are all available at your local automotive parts store.
Valve Guides - (one piece) Seal Power #VG 361. I'm told this new number will fit without reaming. May have to freeze the guide before inserting. It's been tested and I'm told its a good fit.
Valve - Seal Power # 1558 It is too long, grind the tip off as shown in the Model A Mechanics Handbook.
Valve Spring - Seal Power # VS71.
Keeper - Seal Power # VK115.
Spring Retainer - GM # 14003974 (or small block Chevy).
Some of the above numbers are different than the earlier books stated. These parts are all available.
-- Les Andrews, 1999 Technical Director

Question:
How do you adjust model "A" valves? The Ford service bulletins show what order to adjust them in but not how. I have a 1928 motor with Ford Model A valves that are in serious need of adjustment.
-- Rick Botti

Answer:
First Question is do you have adjustable lifters in you engine. If so its just a matter of turning the adjusting screw and checking the clearance. If not you have a major project ahead of you. It will require pulling the valves and building them up and grind to fit. The best answer for the old style solid lifter is to replace them with adjustable ones. It is a challenge but can be done without pulling the engine.
-- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

Question:
Do you have any tips for the installation of valve guides in my late '31 pick-up? All the literature I've read suggests that they should just slip into place. However, that's not the case. I can only get them started by approx. 1/8".
-- Mike Sorrentino

Answer:
You did not mention if you are installing the 2-piece valve guide or modern one-piece guide. Either way, it sounds like you may have carbon build up in the valve guide bore. The valve guide should measure .594" diameter. Try running a honing tool through the guide bore to clean out any carbon. They should slip in with hand pressure. It should be same dimension for either type of valve guide.
-- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Answer:
Les I noticed that the number you list for the valve spring retainer (Chevrolet #3279363 - Page 1-130) is not a good number. The old flat head valve retainers will work, and I think they used the same spring or at least the same spring diameter.
-- Bruce Hyland, Charlotte, NC

Answer:
You are right. They no longer show up in the parts computer. I was always able to get them until about a year ago. The new number for the spring retainer is GM 14003974 or ask for small block Chevy. The Machine shops use to throw them away when they would rebuild a small block and they would usually just give you the old ones. The new number appears in the latest revised printing of the Model A Mechanics Handbook.
-- Les Andrews, Technical Director

Question:
I am having a problem with my late 1931 Tudor Sedan. Whenever I rev the engine in park, it has a bad vibration when you decelerate. People at shows say all different things. What is your opinion of the problem?
-- Joe O

Answer:
Without hearing the engine it is difficult for me to determine your problem. From what you tell me it sounds like something is out of balance. Everything in the engine beginning with the fan blade and the pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, pressure plate and clutch, should all be precisely balanced. Also check to make sure your rear motor mounts are tight and make sure all three mounting bolts for the starter are tight. You may also have a flywheel that is out of alignment. All the above things I have mentioned can cause excessive vibration. I would probably suspect the flywheel and pressure plate to be more likely the problem because of the vibration on deceleration. A warped flywheel housing can throw everything out of alignment, but any one of the above problems could be at fault. It doesn't sound good. I hope you are able to find the problem and correct it.

Question: I have a August 1931 AA 157" truck I am restoring. The chassis is completed but I am having a problem with a used engine I obtained to replace the missing one. This engine was rebuilt in the late forties and never used. The engine has water leaks around the head studs. I have replaced the head gasket with three different types, replaced the studs, sealing them once with Permatex High Tack and once with Rectorseal, used radiator anti-leak in the radiator, and had the head resurfaced. Now, one of the new studs will not tighten, and will need a Helicoil. Since I'll need to remove the head once again, perhaps a Helicoil in all the holes would end the problem? Or do you know of a fix?
-- Jerry Oliver, Olympia WA

Answer: Once you have the head off, the first thing I would do if you have not already done so is to re-thread all the head stud holes in the block. Use the appropriate thread chaser...fit all your head stud and check for the loose ones...if there is side to side movement a Helicoil is probably in order (be sure there are no cracks in the block at the stud holes) When you reinstall your head studs be sure to put a little anti-seize compound on the threads.....occasionally a stud will leak a little water and in a short time will seal itself and you'll have no problem...however, watch it carefully for over heating and a possible combustion leak...it must however torque and hold at 50 lbs...... let me know how you make out.
-- Lyle Meek, Technical Director

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