Tech Q&A - General
Our Technical Directors have answered a vast number of technical questions and answers covering many aspects of the Model A Ford. From the TECHNICAL Q&A menu at the left, select a category that describes the area you would like to research. Have a question for the Technical Director?
Latest Tech Questions
Electrical
Question: Trying to get an old chassis running. Using temporary wiring, we've hooked up all the systems and we were able to get it running. However, when we look at the ammeter, when we accellerate the engine, it discharges. When we idle, it goes back near zero. What have we done wrong?
Answer: Do I assume that the battery is connected correctly and that the generator was arced to polorize the field windings before starting up the engine? If so, try reversing
the wires on the back of the ammeter.
Chuck Christensen,
2012 Technical Director
posted 01/14/13
Hoods
Question: What other vehicles will a hood from a 1928/29 Fordor fit?
Answer: This particular hood will fit only the 1928-1929 Fordor sedans and the 1929 Cabriolet.
Chuck Christensen,
2012 Technical Director
posted 11/07/12
68C Cabriolet Production Figures
Question: I ask regarding the article in the “How to Restore Your Model A” Vol 6...68C...I mislaid my copy and am researching production numbers for this model, ours has the serial"# 4799442 and was assembled in the Chester Pa. Plant and I recall that they listed the # of 68C’s that were made there. Is it possible to access that info on the MAF Web page? Howard Kriebel
Answer: According to that article the following production figures were: Chester-908, Chicago-740, Edgewater-3,232, Long Beach-1,037, Richmond-629, and Somerville-1,659. The article also states that these figures also include the 68-B units that were assembled in 1931 and that actual production figures for the 68-C don't exist. It's interesting that somehow, someone was able to locate these figures.
Chuck Christensen, 2012 Technical Director
posted 02/04/12
MODEL A INSTRUCTION BOOK
Question: I have in my posession a 1931 Ford Model A Instruction Book that is in very good condition. I have been doing research to find the best route to take in order to sell it. I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for this particular sale of said book. I would love to sell it to a member of your organization considering it is a book for which you are specialized in,
-- Robert H. Mahler III
Answer: I would attempt to locate a local Model A owner or one nearby who might be able to determine if the instruction book is original or one of many reproductions available on the market. You can check for MAFCA chapters by going to our website, move your cursor to Chapters and click on Chapter list. This will give you a listing of current Model A Ford Club chapters with contact information. That contact would also be able to provide you with information on possibly advertising your book through their group.
An original manual would definitely be more valuable that the reprints. You can also check out the various instruction books, including methods of determining original from reprints on our website. Click on Site Index near the top of the home page, then click on the letter I and check out the section on Instruction Books.
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Chuck Christensen
2012 Technical Director
Posted 01/01/12
WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE (posted in ENGINE)
Question: I have an engine on blocks and stripped of flywheel cover and head.
What is the weight for lifting? (or approx.)
1930 Model A
Thank you in advance.
Daniel Campbell, Harvard, IL
Answer:
The weight of what you have should be in the neighborhood of 225 to 250 pounds. A complete engine minus flywheel and clutch assembly, including generator, manifolds, etc is listed as 350 pounds.
-- Chuck Christensen,
2011 Technical Director
Posted 12/24/11
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
Question: I have owned Model A's for 40 years and I just purchased a 1930 Model A Dlx. Coupe all restored & beautiful. The only thing is they put a 12 volt alternator that reads 12 volt negative ground. I have the car at a friend's house waiting to make space to bring it home so I have not gone through it yet. My question is that it appears that they put a 12 volt alt. & battery because the car spins over very fast but it seems like the wiring is correct looking for 6 volt? Could someone convert to 12 volt without changing the wires? and if so I assume the bulbs must be 12 volt as well. I am not good when it comes to electrical. Would the stock wiring hold up for 12 volt?
Thanks, Joe Todaro, Bedford Hills New York
Answer: One of the reasons the auto industry converted to 12-volts in the '50's was to reduce the cost of the automobile. When the electrical system is changed to 12-volts the amount of current (amps) is reduced to maintain the same electrical power (watts). With the reduction in current in the system the size of the wire can be reduced, therefore saving money.
As the original system wiring is designed for the 6-volt system the wire size is actually heavier than necessary. This doesn't cause any problems in the system. As for the light bulbs, these would also have been changed to 12-volts. This will also affect the horn, either it has been re-wired for 12-volts or a voltage reducer has been installed to reduce the voltage to the horn to 6-volts. The ignition coil would also have been changed or a voltage reducer installed in series for it also. You might wish to contact the previous owner and determine what was actually done when the conversion was done. - Chuck Christensen, 2011 MAFCA Technical Director - posted 12/10/11
WIPERS (posted in BODY / EXTERIOR)
Question: What is the proper lubrication for the vacuum wiper interior seals? Mine works well when freshly lubricated with Timken wheel bearing grease, but slows down considerably within a day or two. Charles DuBreuil, Auburn Washington,
Answer: I was not able to find any information on the proper lubrication of the vacuum wiper motor in any of the Model A materials that I have, but I did locate the following: On page 46 of the August 1932 Ford Service Bulletin, there is a short article on "Servicing the Windshield Wiper". " In some cases the failure of the wiper to operate may be due to the need for oil in the wiper motor, which can be done without removing it from the car. Secure an old piece of suction hose approximately 6" in length and slip one end over the outlet of the wiper. Move the wiper bar (blade) by hand to either side and just before the valve mechanism "clicks." insert the (other end of the) hose into a small can of good light machine oil (3-in-one). Then pull the wiper bar quickly in the opposite direction, thus sucking the oil into the motor. Next move the wiper bar back and forth in a normal manner so as to allow the surplus oil to be blown back into the can. This operation will fully lubricate one side of the motor. The other side should then be lubricated by repeating the process but by starting the blade on the opposite side of the windshield."
I also have the following materials in my files. I received a copy of an article some time ago which is marked "From the collections of Henry Ford Museum of Greenfield Village Research Center" titled "Lubricating the Vacuum Wiper Motor". The lubricant mentioned as being excellent is Brake Fluid. I would not use brake fluid as it is very hard on painted surfaces. I also have an article from the January 2010 issue of 'Skinned Knuckles magazine titled "How to Repair a Vacuum Windshield Wiper Motor". There recommendation for the proper lubricant is Vaseline. After cleaning the well and the flapper "Liberally coat the well-sides and bottom-with Vaseline. Be liberal but you don't want it too think. The layer of Vaseline will lubricate and provide a seal. Move the flapper back and forth by hand. Remove excess Vaseline." The wheel bearing grease is to heavy for the operation of the vacuum wiper motor. -- Chuck Christensen, 2011Technical Director - posted 10/17/11
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